Aphids and thrips on carnivorous plants: deformed traps

🌿 Care & Pest Control

Deformed traps on your carnivorous plant?
Aphids identified and tackled

From diagnosis to treatment: step-by-step, based on science and practical cultivation experience

Killian Dupont — Grower at carnivorousplantshop & Researcher at Wageningen University
Ingeborg Schouten — Researcher at Wageningen University & Former Expert Biological Crop Protection at Glastuinbouw Nederland
Aphid damage on Sarracenia – deformed pitchers due to aphids
Fig. 1. Typical aphid damage on Sarracenia: conspicuously deformed and curved pitchers due to infestation by Aphididae during the cell division period. The cells expand unevenly because the aphids pierce them before they are fully developed.

Do you proudly walk to your Sarracenia (trumpet pitcher plant) or Dionaea muscipula (Venus flytrap) to admire the new spring traps, only to see this: curved pitchers, traps that don't open properly, or leaves with a wrinkled appearance? There's a good chance you're dealing with aphids on your carnivorous plant. And let's immediately dispel a persistent myth: carnivorous plants do not automatically protect themselves against insect pests. Yet, many webshops and sellers confidently claim: "Carnivorous plants don't suffer from insect pests, they eat them after all! Biological pest control!" We have been cultivating our plants ourselves for 15 years and are happy to give you the facts.

📜 Did you know? Historically, it took a long time before science even dared to investigate whether carnivorous plants existed and how they functioned. The idea that a plant would eat an animal completely overturned the faith-based world order: animals ate plants, not the other way around. But while carnivorous plants reverse the roles, they are still ordinary plants, and therefore susceptible to common plant pests.

So why don't they just eat those aphids?

Close-up of aphid on a young Sarracenia trap
Fig. 2. Close-up of an aphid on a Sarracenia pitcher. Aphids often cluster at the growing points, where cell walls are still thin and sugary. Macro shot

For most carnivorous plants, an aphid is simply too small. A Drosera (sundew) or Pinguicula (butterwort) might incidentally catch one with its sticky leaves, but that won't prevent an aphid infestation on a carnivorous plant. Aphids actually love to nest in the very newest, tender growing points. They suck sap from the young trap before it is fully developed. The result is those typical deformed traps on the Venus flytrap and curved pitchers on the Sarracenia. This is because aphids pierce cells while they are still growing, causing the tissues to stretch unevenly.

Fortunately, many carnivorous plants, especially the hardy species that grow outdoors, are much less susceptible than the average houseplant or the roses in your garden. Carnivorous plants and pests rarely go hand in hand if the basic care is correct.

Damaged and curved Sarracenia pitcher due to aphids
Fig. 3. A damaged Sarracenia pitcher in detail (left) and a healthier pitcher (right): due to early aphid infestation, the pitcher develops asymmetrically. The 'hood' (operculum) sometimes remains partially closed and the pitcher grows crooked. Such traps with slight damage are still functional and indicate a minor infestation.

Aphids or thrips? Sometimes the difference is crucial

Do you not see obvious aphids but still have deformed traps? It's possible the aphids are already gone. But another possibility (especially if the plants are in a greenhouse) is thrips. Thrips are small, elongated insects (often barely visible) that sometimes (depending on the species) leave silvery spots or discolorations on leaves and traps. You know them as typical thunder flies!

Aphid damage on Sarracenia – deformed pitchers

Fig. 4a. Aphid damage: pitchers grow crooked and unevenly. Aphids are visible to the naked eye as green-yellow clusters.
Thrips damage on Sarracenia

Fig. 4b. Thrips damage on Sarracenia: similar to aphid damage, sometimes the pitchers look "melted". Silvery surface discoloration and deformed leaves are possible. Thrips themselves are barely visible without a magnifying glass.
 Aphids
  • Visible to the naked eye (green, black or brown), can be wingless or winged
  • Nests on young growing points instead of mature leaves
  • Sticky honeydew as a byproduct
  • Outdoors: rarely a devastating pest
  • Approach step-by-step, starting with water
 Thrips
  • Hardly visible, better observed with a magnifying glass
  • Deformed traps as damage, if severe, traps sometimes appear melted
  • Outdoors: rarely a big problem
  • In the greenhouse: immediate intervention!
  • In the greenhouse, generations follow each other rapidly
Close-up of thrips on a Sarracenia trap
Fig. 5. Close-up of a thrips (thunder fly or thunder beetle) on a Sarracenia trap. In practice, thrips are barely visible without magnification. Note the size of my finger top-left in the photo to get an idea of the size.
⚠️ Greenhouse alert: In an unheated greenhouse, temperatures are higher than outside, especially in summer. Thrips generations then follow each other very quickly. When in doubt: check with a magnifying glass and intervene immediately if you suspect thrips in a greenhouse environment. Outdoors, nature often resolves this itself. In heated greenhouses, pest pressure is even greater because generations can reproduce even in winter.

First the basics: is your plant healthy?

As growers, we always first look at basic care. Less healthy plants are much more susceptible to carnivorous plant pests. Ask yourself these questions:


Repotting

How long has the plant been in the same pot? Isn't it time for fresh, nutrient-poor peat-perlite mixture or sphagnum moss mixture?

☀️
Sunlight

Does the plant get enough direct sunlight? Crucial for strong tissues that are less attractive to aphids.

💧
Water

Only rainwater, distilled, or osmosis water. Tap water makes the plant weaker and more susceptible to pests.

🔍
Assess severity

Large plant with twenty pitchers and two deformed ones? Then there's often little to worry about. Mother nature frequently takes care of this herself.

Prevention tip when purchasing: Always inspect new plants carefully upon arrival. Buy from trusted growers, but also know: even the best grower can miss a single aphid. A plant nursery is not a sterile laboratory. If you receive a plant with a pest insect on it? Isolate the plant for a while.

Affected leaves: to cut off or not?

This is a question that occupies many growers, and the honest answer is: it depends. The key lies in the principle of the source-sink balance: a term from plant biology and horticulture that describes how a plant distributes energy.

Healthy, mature leaves are sources: they produce sugars through photosynthesis. Young growing leaves and roots are sinks: they consume energy. A deformed leaf still participates in photosynthesis. Less efficiently than a healthy leaf, but not useless!

✂️ Cut off or leave it?

Use this rule of thumb based on the source-sink balance:

Cut off if…

The plant has many healthy leaves in addition to the affected ones. Is there a lot of aphid on the leaf? Then you immediately remove part of the population. Deformed leaves contribute little if there are better alternatives.

Leave it if…

The plant has few leaves in addition to the affected traps. Deformed leaves still photosynthesize. If you remove them too, you deprive the plant of its only energy source. Treat the aphids in other ways.

The IPM step-by-step plan: from prevention to control

We tackle aphids on Sarracenia, Dionaea and other carnivorous plants according to the principles of IPM (Integrated Pest Management): integrated crop protection. This means working step-by-step: from prevention, to mechanical, to biological, and only when absolutely necessary, targeted chemical intervention.

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Prevention
Prevention is better than cure
Inspect new plants upon arrival for aphids, thrips or other unwanted guests. Temporarily isolate new acquisitions from your existing collection. Ensure optimal basic care: full sun, rainwater, nutrient-poor substrate. A healthy, vigorously growing plant is much less vulnerable to aphids on carnivorous plants. Remove dead leaves in spring where pests can overwinter.
1
Mechanical, free & effective
Spray off & submerge
Aphids are often loosely attached to the plant. Place the plant outdoors and spray the aphids off with a targeted, slightly stronger jet of water. Even more effective: the underwater trick. Submerge the plant completely in a bucket of rainwater for 24 hours. Sarracenia and Dionaea can handle this well. The aphids drown; the plant doesn't mind. This is often enough to get rid of an aphid infestation on Sarracenia.
2
Biological
Deploy natural enemies
Let nature do the work. You can easily order ladybug larvae or lacewing larvae online. Release them on the affected plants; they will devour the aphids rapidly. Added benefit: completely harmless to your plants and the rest of your garden. The disadvantage is that this is more expensive to purchase. Often they also come naturally to aphids, which is why aphids (in outdoor cultivation) are typically a big problem in early spring, as it takes a while for the natural enemy population to be sufficient to keep the aphids in check.
Ladybug as a natural enemy of aphids on carnivorous plants
Fig. 6. A ladybug in action as a biological controller. Both the adult beetle and the larvae consume dozens of aphids per day. With targeted deployment in a garden or unheated greenhouse, they can reduce a population within a few days without any chemical residue.
3
Chemical: as a last resort
Targeted insecticides (with caution)
Aphids on carnivorous plants are fortunately not as persistent as thrips or mealybugs. Contact insecticides are therefore usually the best choice. Preferably choose a product based on:
  • Potassium salts (similar to soft soap): mild and effective
  • Neem oil: good contact action, slightly systemic
  • Pyrethrins: fast and effective, but broad-spectrum, see warning
⚠️
Caution with Drosera (sundew): Sundews are extremely sensitive to chemical and biological pesticides. Always test a product on a single plant first before spraying the entire collection!

Spraying tip: Always spray in the late evening, when the sun is off the plants, to prevent scorching.

How quickly do pesticides break down?

A practical but often forgotten aspect: the breakdown rate of the product. This determines how long residues remain on the plant and whether beneficial insects that arrive later are still at risk.

Product Breakdown What does that mean?
Pyrethrins Very fast (hours–1 day) Break down quickly in sunlight and air. Effective in the evening, largely gone by the next day. But: beneficial insects such as bees are also affected. Only use on non-flowering plants.
Potassium salts / soap Fast (hours) Work exclusively as a contact agent and leave no residues. Safe for beneficial insects once the product has dried.
Neem oil Medium (several days) Slightly systemic action, remains active a little longer. Also effective in hard-to-reach places. Avoid contact with open traps.
Systemic insecticides Slow (weeks) They are absorbed by the plant. We advise against them for a simple aphid infestation. However, they are useful in (professional) greenhouses and for very persistent, hidden pests that contact sprays don't reach, such as mealybugs or root aphids. Be careful outdoors: residues in the traps can also harm beneficial insects.
⚠️ Golden rules for spraying:
Always follow the recommended dosage on the packaging; more is not better and may damage delicate traps. Also, alternate: never use the same product twice in a row (or a product with the same active ingredient or the same mode of action). Insects quickly build up resistance. If the surviving aphids on Sarracenia become resistant, you'll really have a problem.

Pay attention to the mode of action: Switching brand names or active ingredients does not help if the biological mode of action (the way it eliminates pests) is identical. Products from the same chemical subclass will still cause cross-resistance. Therefore, check the IRAC code on the packaging or look it up online to ensure you are truly creating a different type of barrier.
⚠️ Note on 'organic': Organic certainly does not mean harmless to the rest of nature. Pyrethrins, for example, are very broad-spectrum and also kill bees and hoverflies. Only use them on plants that are not currently flowering.

Healthy plants start with the right foundation

Do you grow carnivorous plants yourself or want to start? Check out our range, from hardy species to the right soil mixture for an optimal start.

View our range

📸 Share your growing experience

Do you have experience with aphids, thrips, or other pests on your carnivorous plants? Or perhaps a beautiful result after following these steps? Send your photos to killian@dupontflora.com, who knows, your plant might be featured in our next blog post, and you could win a voucher!

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